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How to: Piecing Free Form Triangles with Jean Wells

Jean is a home, staying safe and busy in her studio. She wanted to share a technique she's been having fun with: piecing free form triangles. 

Here are her instructions:

I stitched together several free form triangle blocks in a palette of fabrics from Cotton and Steel, In The Woods collection, that just called out to me to play with.

Notice in the sample above, none of the triangle shapes are exactly alike. The differences give it more of a playful feeling. Also notice that the triangle shapes do not reach the top of the blocks.

To create your own triangles...

1. Cut free form triangles, no two alike. Remember to allow for a 1/4” seam allowance on all three edges.
2. Measure the height of the tallest triangle and add 1 1/4” to that measurement. Cut a strip of background fabric to the measurement you just calculated, if using all the same fabric for the background. When not using the same background fabric for all blocks, cut as you go--but do make sure to have at least 1 1/4” more background fabric at the top edge of your triangle. It can always be trimmed off later.
3. Lay your triangle on the background fabric right side up. Place the straight edge of a ruler along the edge of the triangle. Cut along the edge of the ruler.
4. Place the background fabric on top of the triangle with right sides together. Begin at the bottom of the triangle, and stitch the fabrics together. Press the seam allowance toward the triangle.
   
5. Place the straight edge of the ruler on the right hand side of the triangle with right side facing up. Trim off the excess background fabric at the top of the block so you have a straight edge for your next seam.
6. Lay the triangle piece on the strip of background fabric right side up. Place the straight edge of the ruler along the right hand edge of the triangle and cut through the background fabric.  Sew, right sides together, as you did in step 4.
7. Trim your block into a rectangle as follows: Trim the bottom of your block flush with the bottom of the triangle. Cut sides a minimum of 1/4" from widest part of triangle, and the top should a minimum of 1 1/4" from the top point of the triangle.

This technique can also be used to create a border of triangles like the one below.

Keep the background fabric all the same and work from left to right inserting triangles. Cut a strip of background fabric the full length you need and cut and insert triangles one at a time as described above. 

 

 

DIY Felt Hydrangea Bouquet

Here in Central Oregon, spring flowers are just starting to poke through the ground. We couldn't wait for them to bloom and bring a little spring cheer, so we made our own flowers. Our bouquet has the added advantages of never wilting, needing water, or activating anyone's allergies. 

Hydrangeas are always a favorite, and they look so good in fabric people think they are real. Set a knock out Easter table with a bouquet or two--or if you aren't hosting, bring a bunch as a gift. While a beautiful bouquet is always wonderful, you could also attach finished flowers to a headband, cover a tote bag in them, or add some to a pillow. 

The key to this project is high quality wool. You need the fabric to be dense enough to hold its shape but still have enough drape to look soft and flexible, like real flower petals. Our flowers are made with Sue Spargo wool . We love it for its wonderful feel and rich color.

Our Hydrangeas may look real, but they're made from wool and floral wire, with a bit of ink for shading. To make a full bouquet does take a bit of time, but is simple enough for older kids and beginning crafters. No sewing skill needed. We created a full video tutorial to walk you through each step, and put all the supplies you need together in a kit so you can't go wrong. Plus, kits cost about the same, or even less than, a single fresh flower bouquet and you won't have to throw them away after a week. 

The picture above shows the size of one completed purple hydrangea kit. Add a second kit or mix colors for a larger bouquet (like in the first picture).

Now for all the details... 

Supplies:

• Hydrangea Kit or
  • 2 - 9" x 11" quality felted wool fabric (we used Sue Spargo Wool) in two colors for each group of flowers
  • 1 - 6" x 9" piece of green felted wool fabric for leaves 
  • floral wire
  • floral tape
• hot glue
• all-purpose ink 
• paper towel

Tools:

• Sharp Scissors
• Pinking Shears
• Low Temp Glue Gun
• Wire Snips
• Round or Needle Nose Pliers
• Fantastix (to apply ink)

Once you've got all your materials together this video will lead you through the process of making your flowers one step at a time. 

In the video we show you how to free-cut each flower and leaf, but if you prefer, you can make a template to trace and then cut from. Download the template page, and trace onto a sheet of template plastic or card stock. Download the templates here.

Your last step is to gather the flowers into bunches and wrap with floral tape. Real hydrangeas grow in clusters and grouping your stems makes it easier to arrange and helps them stay put in a vase. For each kit we make four clusters of flowers. One large, one medium, and two small. To make a cluster start with a single flower and build your arrangement around it. You want to approximate a half dome shape. Start making your final arrangement with the large cluster and arrange your other clusters around it. Be sure to vary the height of your flowers when making clusters and the height of your clusters when doing your final arranging. Once you have your clusters arranged you can secure them with more tape or use a green rubber band if you want to be able to take them apart later. 

Here's a few close-ups of our finished flowers. See how subtle the inking is, but how much it adds to the look. You can also see how using two similar colors of wool gives the flowers a more natural look. 

We hope you enjoy this project. Share your finished bouquets  in our Show Us Your Stuff Facebook group or use tag #stitchinpost on Instagram.

Let us know if you liked this kit and tutorial. We have some other flower types we could offer if there is enough interest. 

Happy crafting!

Face Mask Tips, Patterns, and Information

Face masks are in desperate need and anyone who can sew, can help. We've gathered the best information and patterns we could find and added some of our own tips and tricks in this post. We also created an information page on our website that we will update as more information becomes available. 

Let's get started with some general information and guidelines...

Each organization accepting masks has its own needs and requirements. Before you start sewing find an organization in need, get their requirements, then choose your mask pattern to fit.

Completed masks can be donated at many local hospitals. If your hospital isn't accepting masks at this time they can still be a good source of information. More organizations who may be accepting donations are hospice care, senior centers, first responders, and shelters. Other options for finding an organization in need are to contact your local quilting guild or quilt shop, join a mask making group on Facebook, ask a healthcare professional you know, or check your local news and community websites.

If you are in Central Oregon,  Partners in Care (a hospice and home health organization) reached out to us and is in desperate need of masks. You can also join Central Oregon Emergency Mask Makers Facebook group. They are organizing mask making and collection, and are a great source for up to date patterns and information. 

General Mask Requirements
Use tightly woven 100% cotton fabric & cotton thread
Remember that both men & women need masks
Masks will be washed and sterilized before use
Any excess masks will be donated to others in need

Possible Organization Specific Requirements
No elastic (it may have latex)
Nose pocket for wire
Filter pocket
Set size

In general pleated masks with fabric or ribbon ties are preferred. 

Now that you have the basics, here are some pattern options...

Mask Patterns & Tutorials

• Video tutorial- Double layer with nose wire, filter pocket and elastic from Easy to Sew
• Pattern - Double layer contour mask with ties from Free Sewing
• Pattern - Double layer with filter pocket and ties from St. Charles Hospital  

Tips & Tricks (most apply to the pleated style mask)

1) Cut and sew your masks in batches. For example if you are sewing the pleated style mask, most instructions have you complete the rectangular face portion then add the ties to the sides. It's faster and easier to cut your fabric two to four times the width of a single mask, follow all the construction instructions, then measure and cut your individual masks.

This method works great for fat quarters and a pleated style mask. You can get six masks (without ties) from two fat quarters with almost zero waste. Use ribbon, bias tape, yardage, or another fat quarter for the ties. 

Steps below are meant to be adapted to your patten, not a full pattern.

Place fat quarters right sides together and square up. Sew a 1/4" seam along both long edges (note: this won't work for a directional print). Cut in half lengthwise.

With one of the halves, mark and turn back cut edges 1/4" inch. Sew turned edge. Repeat this, and remaining steps, for both sides.

Lay flat and pleat both sides, using the turned edge as the top (see pleating tip below).

Square raw edges if needed and cut into three equal sections (about 7 1/4" each)

Fold right sides together and sew turned down edge in 1 3/4" from each side. This will leave a gap in the top middle of the mask to insert a filter.

Turn right sides out and press.

Add ties to the sides (see tip below) and you're done. Six masks from two fat quarters and very little time.

2) If you have pre-made bias tape or cotton ribbon, using them for ties will speed up construction significantly. Just make sure anything you use is 100% cotton, durable, and can be laundered 

3) When making your own ties, use a bias tape maker or try this hack with pins. Pins should be about an iron width apart and make sure the pins you use can be ironed over. Pressing your strip in half first gives you a guide to follow as you pull your strip through the pins. Strips should be cut 1 1/2" wide by 36". Finished tie will be 3/8" wide

4) Make a paper pleating guide. Measurements shown are what we used for our fat quarter masks, alter the measurements to fit your pattern. This guide makes two pleats.

5) Use two different fabrics, one for the front and a second for the back. This helps wearers keep track of which side faces out if they need to remove the mask. 

6) Tightly zigzag the ends of your ties instead of folding fabric back. This eliminates bulk that can be difficult to sew over and saves time, but still gives a finished edge. 

7) Open your bias tape/ties and sew to back of mask, before sewing entire tie and top stitching on front of mask. This is more secure and much easier than worrying about catching both sides of the tie with one stitch.

If you have any tips to add, please leave them in the comments.

Organizations Accepting Masks in Central Oregon 

• Partners in Care (home health & hospice care)
• Central Oregon Emergency Mask Makers Facebook group
• St. Charles Hospital

If you know of an organization that would like to be included on our list please email us at [email protected] or leave a comment. 

Thanks for helping. We can do this together!

 

Stitchin' Post Newsletter

Do you subscribe to our newsletters? We have one for all Stitchin' Post news and a second for Quilter's Affair information. Newsletters keep you in the loop with our latest arrivals, projects, tutorials, events and special offers.

Besides being the first to know all the good stuff, if you subscribe to the Stitchin' Post newsletter we will send you a link for a free pdf pattern as a small thank you for joining us. Your free pattern, Sorbet Log Cabin by Valori Wells, is a classic that you can make so many ways. Go modern with bright solids, funky with a mix of patterns, or try half pattern and half solid. 

We love to make, and we know you do too, so let's make things together! Thanks for being a part of the Stitchin' Post community. 

P.S. - We also have a calendar and post frequently on social media (links in footer) to help keep you in the know and inspired to create. 

Dreaming in Color - Color Balancing

The past two months have been filled with the bright colors of summer even though it is winter in Sisters. This is the time of year that I work on quilts that will be donated to fundraisers for Sisters Outdoor Quilt Show. Our theme for our 45^th anniversary show this year is “My Kind of Town.” As always, I began my project by pulling as many fabrics as possible in the colors I choose to work with. Once that's done, I turn to balancing colors in my composition.

“Summertime” is my 22” x 34” quilt for the Storybook that Dan Rickards of the Clearwater Gallery creates for display during Quilter's Affair and Sisters Outdoor Quilt Show. As I thought about this year's theme, what came to mind is our wonderful little town and looking out onto the landscape that surrounds us. As I looked at my fabric choices, I could see a strong contrast in temperature (warm vs cool colors). My challenge would be to balance this contrast out as I made my final fabric choices.

The top portion of the piece is mostly cool colors with a few bits of warm accents. I made a decision to use the deep magenta as an accent throughout. Since I was working mostly with solids, I looked for fabrics with visual texture that would add interest. You can see the textured blue in the sky and the two textures in the cottage.

The photo above is where I start transitioning into the lower field area, there you start to see more warm colors. You can see where greens and yellow ochre begin to play a bigger role. Notice that you still see the magenta, and a bit of really pale pink to mimic the pink in the sky above. Also in this area, French Knot embroidery adds a playful feeling and introduces the idea of a summer garden up close.

To carry through with the landscape feel, the sections of fabric became larger. It took me a bit of time to balance out the colors, always referring to what came above. Proportions of the shades of yellow ochre really came into play. I sketched a playful garden and planned to add over the top of this area. Originally, I was going to hand applique leaves and flowers there.

But, as I added the patterned fabric, it felt really busy and did not honor the colors and piecing above. So, I abandoned the idea and free motion sketched the lines and shapes, then filled in some subtle color with embroidery.

This just goes to prove the point that I tell the students in the classroom: When you get to the last one third of telling the story in the design process, the quilt will tell you what it needs. We just have to listen!

Another recent project related to the upcoming Quilt Show is fabric postcards. I created three 4” x 6” postcards for the WISH Upon A Card project, to be auctioned during Quilter's Affair (two are pictured above). The proceeds go toward an art scholarship for a deserving high school student in Sisters. If you are interested in making a card, go to the Sisters Outdoor Quilt Show website. You can contact them with your mailing address and request a material packet. During the week of Quilter's Affair, cards will be on display at the High School, and available for sale during the lunch hour. 

For those interested in experimenting with the color palette from my Summertime quilt, we've created a summertime fat quarter bundle with six of the fabrics I used. 

DIY Grocery Tote

Oregon recently passed a law banning single use plastic bags, and adding a five cent charge to paper bags in many retail situations. This has us thinking about reusable tote bags. Besides being Eco-friendly and saving you from extra charges, fabric bags are sturdier, easier to carry, and way better looking than their plastic cousins. Plus, you get a relaxing hour or two with your sewing machine. What's not to love?!

To make it super simple to craft your own bag, we've put together a free pattern, a tutorial (below), and four tote bag kits. Kits come with everything you need for a single bag: exterior linen or canvas fabric, muslin lining, and sturdy cotton webbing for handles. 

Val raided her fabric collection and generously agreed to share four of her gorgeous vintage fabrics from her lines Mystic and Quill. All four fabrics are out of print, and available only in these kits and in limited quantities. Once they're gone, they're gone for good. 

Okay, let's get sewing! Follow the pattern below or download the pattern. 

Cutting Instructions:

Cut 2 – 17 ½” x 18 ½” rectangles out of outside and lining fabric

Cut 2 – 22” pieces from cotton webbing

Assembly Instructions:

1.  Place outside fabrics right sides together, pin around sides and bottom. Repeat with lining.

2.  Using a ¼” seam allowance, stitch around bag, pivoting at the corners. Repeat with lining.

3.  To create the gusset, fold the corner as shown, making sure you can feel the seams nest together. (One seam goes to the left and the other to the right.)  Measure down 5” from the point, and mark a line across the triangle. Pin the fabrics together.

4. Stitch across the triangle at the pencil line, back-tacking at each end of the seam. Repeat for the other corner of the outer fabric and both corners of the lining.

5.  Trim off corners 1/4” from the stitching.

6.  Press lining and outside of bag. Press top edge down 1/4”.

7.  Turn outside right-side out and place the lining inside, so the wrong sides are together. Line up the edge seams of both fabrics and pin in place. Lay flat on table and measure 4” from side seam edge. Place one end of cotton webbing in between the two fabrics, 1/2” from edge, and pin in place. Repeat for other side of handle. Turn bag over and pin other handle in place using the first handle for placement.

8.  Pin entire top of the bag.

9.  Top stitch around top of bag, 1/8” in from edge.

10.  Top stitch around top of bag a second time, 1/4” in from the edge.

All done! Grab your new bag and head for the store. 

Download Pattern

Shop Supplies & Tools Shown:

Kit

Ruler

Oliso Iron

Wool Mat

KAI Scissors

Marking Pencil

 

Dreaming in Color - Shades of Winter with Jean Wells

It is January, and as I write this blog it is trying to snow outside. To so many people, the winter colors in the landscape are dull and uninviting. When I take time to sit and really look outside, I see some very interesting combinations of colors. Seeing our Central Oregon sagebrush with snow opened my eyes to the subtle elegance of neutrals.

That imagery stayed with me and I started noticing other combinations, some even with high contrast.

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On a drive to the bay area a few years ago in early March, we came upon Grass Lake. I asked John to stop the car, so I could photograph the beautiful blue color reflecting from the sky on the ice with the warm cream colored grass. This image has stayed with me for a long time, and below you can see how I used those colors in Entwined.

During a recent hike along the Metolius river, I noticed the ice blue water again and then saw the contrast of the warm and cool neutral colors along the river's edge. On down the river, the red berries on the bare branches jumped out at me. This gave me the idea of using red for an accent in a neutral piece.

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It seems mother nature reminds us of the wonderful contrast of green in the moss and lichen you see in the woods. I feel like green is a neutral in nature. And if you look closely all the different shades and tones of green, all work together in nature. When I used to teach sampler classes and a student might be stuck, many times some form of green would save the day.

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This quilt was started in January a few years ago. I pulled mostly neutral fabrics with subtle hints of color that I start to see appearing in March as we approached spring in the high desert. The lichen type of green just seemed to work with this piece.

In 2020, I hope you will take the time to sit down and reflect on what you see, and take time to analyze it. Inspiration is all around us, but until we open ourselves up, it is invisible. Take notes of your observations, try finding descriptive words to describe what you see, and write them down. Happy New Year to all of you.

Jean put together a set of winter inspired fabrics for the January Palette of the Month Fat Quarter Bundle. Use them to spark your own inspiration. 

No Knit Yarn Hats

Christmas is only a few days away! Most of us are super busy with last minute preparations; focused on wrapping, baking, and simply getting through it all. So our last project of Christmas couldn't be easier, plus you probably already have everything you need to make it. These adorable yarn hats only take a few minutes to put together and make charming package toppers or a quick last minute ornament to give. 

Let's get right to making one...

You'll need: yarn, card stock or toilet roll, glue or double sided tape, thread, and some scissors

We used worsted weight red and green yarns from our stash, card stock in similar colors to the yarn and strong scrapbooking double sided tape. Just about any scrap yarn you have will work for this project, but if you go for a super thin or thick yarn you may need to change the dimensions of your base circle.

Cut your materials (makes 1 hat):

    card stock  3/4" x 6" or toilet roll 3/4" wide round

    yarn 14" lengths

Using double sided tape or glue, form your card stock strip into a circle (overlapping the ends 1/2") making the hat base. Fold a yarn piece in half and wrap it around the base, pulling the cut ends of the yarn through the loop made by the fold. Repeat until the entire hat base is covered. The number of strips you need is dependent on your yarn weight. Keep adding yarn pieces until the base is fully covered, pushing them together as you add them. We used about 46 strips per hat. The more you add, the better your finished hat will look. 

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Once the base is entirely covered with the yarn, gather up the all the cut ends of yarn and tie tightly (with more yarn) about 2 1/2" above bottom of hat. Trim ends to make the pom pom. Add thread or ribbon to hang. 

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Fill your hat with yarn or batting to get that rounded shape. We used the yarn trimming scraps from the last step and found that because we used wool yarn they stayed inside on their own, but you can also finish your hat by gluing on card stock or a piece of fabric trimmed to fit the hat opening. 

Have fun and Happy Holidays!

If you're looking for more last minute holiday ideas, check out some of our previous blog posts:

Wrap It Up

DIY Fabric Chain

Three Scarves You Can Make in an Hour

Favorite Holiday Cookies

DIY Adjustable Dog Collar

This week we're going to the dogs with a DIY adjustable collar. By making your own collar you can ensure a great fit, trust in the quality of the hardware and workmanship, and show off a bit of your own style.

(Moxie is wearing a size S 5/8" wide collar)

Our pattern and video will walk you through correctly measuring your dog's neck for a secure and comfortable fit. Because you construct the collar from your dog's specific measurements, their neck size will be in the center of the adjustment range leaving room for them to grow or lose weight. Dogs weight often fluctuates (just like ours) and when it does you know their collar will still fit perfectly.  You can also choose the width that is most comfortable for your dog. 

Quality hardware in a dog collar is a big deal. You are trusting your dogs safety to it's reliability. First and foremost, be sure to use only heavy-duty welded D-rings. Even small dogs can be quite strong and may be able to bend non-welded hardware and escape. You want a heavy plastic tri-glide slide (the part that lets the collar adjust) with teeth. The teeth help grip the collar so once you've adjusted it, it stays in place. Poor quality slides can break and don't grip as well, allowing the collar to get larger and possibly slip over your dog's head. Last is the buckle: Look for a contoured side release buckle made of heavy plastic. They have a slight curve to them so they fit comfortably against your dogs neck. Look for one you can open easily with one hand, but that stays secure once it's snapped closed. If you have a long haired dog, try finding a buckle with rounded clips, it helps keep their fur from being clipped in the buckle. 

Now the fun part - the fabric. Almost any sturdy washable fabric will work to cover your webbing. There are only three things to keep in mind when choosing your fabric: bulk, feel, and care. While denim, and other thicker fabrics, can be super cute and durable, they are too thick to make this style of collar. You are going to be sewing four layers of fabric, plus the webbing to itself, and then pulling it through the hardware. "Feel" simply means your fabric should feel comfortable against your dog's neck, nothing rough or scratchy. This is especially important for short haired breeds. Dogs get dirty, choose a fabric you can wash and that can take a bit of wear and tear. Don't forget to prewash your fabric, to prevent distortion when you do wash your collar. You also want to prewash fabric so any dye that isn't fully set comes out in the wash, and not on your dog. Quilting cottons, linen, or light-weight canvas make great choices. This is also a fun time to try upcycling. Try making a collar from an old man's dress shirt, a torn sheet, or even a pair of flannel PJs. You can find some really fun patterns in old clothes. You don't need a lot of fabric, get creative!

(Teyla is wearing a size M 1" collar)

We've put together a detailed pattern and video tutorial to help you get great results. The pattern includes instruction for all sizes and 5/8" or 1" width, plus instructions for making a matching leash. We show you how to measure your dog's neck correctly, give you a formula for constructing the collar based on your specific measurement, and and we created a video to show you how to put all that hardware on the correct way. We also searched for and put together kits with high quality hardware and webbing--all you need to do is add some fabric. Easy! Our kits are available in 5/8" width (fits neck sizes up to 15") and 1" width (fits up to 24" necks). 

 

Once you get the hang of it, these collars come together quickly. You'll want to make your dog an entire wardrobe. A customized collar is also a wonderful gift for a dog lover in your life. 

Teyla can't imagine why we'd make a collar for any other dog, so she's trying out the size small as a nose ring. 

Note - Fabrics pictured are old and from our stash. They are no longer available for purchase.

 

 

Make Your Own Veggie Bags

Every little bit helps when in comes to living greener. One way to make a difference is by using reusable produce bags, instead of plastic. While reducing your plastic use is an obvious benefit, the ventilation in mesh veggie bags can help your fruits and vegetables stay fresh longer and you can wash them right in the bag. Making your own bags also allows you to customize the bag size to the type of produce you buy regularly, getting rid of all that wadded up plastic in your vegetable drawer for a single lemon. On top of that, these bags look great, are strong, durable, and easily washable. It's pretty easy to "do the right thing" when it also makes your life easier.

Pair a set of bags with a grocery tote, some beautiful fruit, or a set of beeswax wraps for a thoughtful and useful gift any time of year. You can make up a set or two in a couple of hours max - and I don't know about you, but I'd rather spend the time with my sewing machine than braving the mall. 

On to the good part - making the bags! First you'll need to gather your materials: stretchy, fine mesh fabric (not netting, tulle, or large mesh), fabric for the top casing, cording, and toggle closures. The key to the best bags is finding the right fabric. Make sure your fabric has a fair amount of stretch to it to accommodate all shapes and sizes of produce. It should also be soft and have small holes in the mesh. Large holes can catch on stems or leaves, damaging your bag or your produce. Lastly, you want fabric that can tolerate a cool iron. Mesh fabric has a tendency to buckle and gather a bit when sewn, and pressing is the key to flat seams. 

We like Sensua Mesh fabric for this project. It has 25% four-way stretch, is 74% nylon 26% spandex, is cool iron friendly, and has tiny holes. We put together kits with everything you need to make four bags of varied sizes, or you can purchase the fabric and pattern separately. Kit's include instructions, 1/2 yard mesh fabric, casing fabric, cording, and 4 toggle closures.

 

We've made enough of these bags now to have a few tips to help ensure your process goes smoothly and your bags look amazing. 

• Use a walking foot if you have one.
• Start and finish your seams with a "bunny tail" (a small non-mesh fabric scrap).
• Use a wider seam allowance  - 3/8 to 5/8, depending on your machine and comfort level. If your seam is too narrow, the fabric can be pulled inside your machine. 
• Press all your seams. The fabric is very lightweight and stretchy, so has a tendency to ripple and gather a bit, pressing will keep it flat.
• Add your cording to the casing before you stitch it to the bag - so much easier than feeding it through after! Just be careful not to sew over it.
• Cut your casing piece 1/2" longer than you need. Pause at the end of stitching it to the bag and trim it to fit exactly. (Don't forget to leave enough to fold the raw edge over.)
• Use nylon cording. You can melt the ends so it won't ravel and the cording will hold up to lots of use.

(photo shows navy mesh and old scrap fabric, not fabric included in navy kit)

If you are making the four bags from the kit, they will all fit nicely inside the smallest bag for storage. Keep a set or two in your car, purse, or inside your grocery totes and you'll always be ready. These bags also work great as a laundry bag for delicates, or to hold artisan style bread that needs to breathe.