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Quick Strip Quilt - Variations

One our most popular posts continues to be our Quick Strip Quilt tutorial, so we wanted to share a few variations on that fast and easy quilt. We've created four new and equally simple variations, all made from our Oregon themed batik strip rolls. For basic quick strip quilt technique, and detail photos of all the steps see our original post. 

Aren't they a pretty bunch?

Our first, and simplest, option is to follow the original quick strip quilt instructions, but in the first step sew the short ends of your strips together at a 45 degree angle. You can subcut and repeat the process for more color variation, as in the original, but we felt these quilts didn't need it. 

The quilt above is made with our Douglas Fir roll, with strips placed randomly.

This quilt uses the same technique, but arranges the colors placing the lights in the middle, with mostly green on one side and blues on the other. The quilt is made with our Blue Pool roll. 

We did the same with our Rainbow roll, putting the strips in rainbow order. This one would be such a wonderful children's quilt with all it's bright colors.

In the last version of this technique, we placed all the strips from the Walk in the Woods roll in an order to simulate a picture of just that, walking through the woods.

Our next quilt uses the Sage Meadow roll, and saves the variation until the end. After completing the basic Quick Strip top, measure from the top left of your quilt 19” to the right and cut from top to bottom. Then measure the same amount down and cut from side to side. This divides your quilt top into four parts, two of them square and two rectangular. Rotate both squares 90 degrees, then sew all the pieces back together. 

Our Oregon Sunset roll quilt is all about those gorgeous colors. Strips are divided into five groups - two light, two middle, and one dark. The dark strips are sewn together to form the center, then the middle groups are sewn together and attached to each side of the dark. The lightest strip groups are sewn together and cut until you have long strips approximately 8 1/2" wide. Sew each strip on the outsides and you're done.

This last quilt is made from a free pattern called Jelly Roll with a Zinger and uses the Coastal Fog roll. It's another longtime Stitchin' Post favorite and a simple way to jazz up a strip roll.

Hopefully all these quilts inspires you to try one of these fast and fun beauties for yourself. 

DIY Felt Hydrangea Bouquet

Here in Central Oregon, spring flowers are just starting to poke through the ground. We couldn't wait for them to bloom and bring a little spring cheer, so we made our own flowers. Our bouquet has the added advantages of never wilting, needing water, or activating anyone's allergies. 

Hydrangeas are always a favorite, and they look so good in fabric people think they are real. Set a knock out Easter table with a bouquet or two--or if you aren't hosting, bring a bunch as a gift. While a beautiful bouquet is always wonderful, you could also attach finished flowers to a headband, cover a tote bag in them, or add some to a pillow. 

The key to this project is high quality wool. You need the fabric to be dense enough to hold its shape but still have enough drape to look soft and flexible, like real flower petals. Our flowers are made with Sue Spargo wool . We love it for its wonderful feel and rich color.

Our Hydrangeas may look real, but they're made from wool and floral wire, with a bit of ink for shading. To make a full bouquet does take a bit of time, but is simple enough for older kids and beginning crafters. No sewing skill needed. We created a full video tutorial to walk you through each step, and put all the supplies you need together in a kit so you can't go wrong. Plus, kits cost about the same, or even less than, a single fresh flower bouquet and you won't have to throw them away after a week. 

The picture above shows the size of one completed purple hydrangea kit. Add a second kit or mix colors for a larger bouquet (like in the first picture).

Now for all the details... 

Supplies:

• Hydrangea Kit or
  • 2 - 9" x 11" quality felted wool fabric (we used Sue Spargo Wool) in two colors for each group of flowers
  • 1 - 6" x 9" piece of green felted wool fabric for leaves 
  • floral wire
  • floral tape
• hot glue
• all-purpose ink 
• paper towel

Tools:

• Sharp Scissors
• Pinking Shears
• Low Temp Glue Gun
• Wire Snips
• Round or Needle Nose Pliers
• Fantastix (to apply ink)

Once you've got all your materials together this video will lead you through the process of making your flowers one step at a time. 

In the video we show you how to free-cut each flower and leaf, but if you prefer, you can make a template to trace and then cut from. Download the template page, and trace onto a sheet of template plastic or card stock. Download the templates here.

Your last step is to gather the flowers into bunches and wrap with floral tape. Real hydrangeas grow in clusters and grouping your stems makes it easier to arrange and helps them stay put in a vase. For each kit we make four clusters of flowers. One large, one medium, and two small. To make a cluster start with a single flower and build your arrangement around it. You want to approximate a half dome shape. Start making your final arrangement with the large cluster and arrange your other clusters around it. Be sure to vary the height of your flowers when making clusters and the height of your clusters when doing your final arranging. Once you have your clusters arranged you can secure them with more tape or use a green rubber band if you want to be able to take them apart later. 

Here's a few close-ups of our finished flowers. See how subtle the inking is, but how much it adds to the look. You can also see how using two similar colors of wool gives the flowers a more natural look. 

We hope you enjoy this project. Share your finished bouquets  in our Show Us Your Stuff Facebook group or use tag #stitchinpost on Instagram.

Let us know if you liked this kit and tutorial. We have some other flower types we could offer if there is enough interest. 

Happy crafting!

Stitchin' Post Newsletter

Do you subscribe to our newsletters? We have one for all Stitchin' Post news and a second for Quilter's Affair information. Newsletters keep you in the loop with our latest arrivals, projects, tutorials, events and special offers.

Besides being the first to know all the good stuff, if you subscribe to the Stitchin' Post newsletter we will send you a link for a free pdf pattern as a small thank you for joining us. Your free pattern, Sorbet Log Cabin by Valori Wells, is a classic that you can make so many ways. Go modern with bright solids, funky with a mix of patterns, or try half pattern and half solid. 

We love to make, and we know you do too, so let's make things together! Thanks for being a part of the Stitchin' Post community. 

P.S. - We also have a calendar and post frequently on social media (links in footer) to help keep you in the know and inspired to create. 

DIY Grocery Tote

Oregon recently passed a law banning single use plastic bags, and adding a five cent charge to paper bags in many retail situations. This has us thinking about reusable tote bags. Besides being Eco-friendly and saving you from extra charges, fabric bags are sturdier, easier to carry, and way better looking than their plastic cousins. Plus, you get a relaxing hour or two with your sewing machine. What's not to love?!

To make it super simple to craft your own bag, we've put together a free pattern, a tutorial (below), and four tote bag kits. Kits come with everything you need for a single bag: exterior linen or canvas fabric, muslin lining, and sturdy cotton webbing for handles. 

Val raided her fabric collection and generously agreed to share four of her gorgeous vintage fabrics from her lines Mystic and Quill. All four fabrics are out of print, and available only in these kits and in limited quantities. Once they're gone, they're gone for good. 

Okay, let's get sewing! Follow the pattern below or download the pattern. 

Cutting Instructions:

Cut 2 – 17 ½” x 18 ½” rectangles out of outside and lining fabric

Cut 2 – 22” pieces from cotton webbing

Assembly Instructions:

1.  Place outside fabrics right sides together, pin around sides and bottom. Repeat with lining.

2.  Using a ¼” seam allowance, stitch around bag, pivoting at the corners. Repeat with lining.

3.  To create the gusset, fold the corner as shown, making sure you can feel the seams nest together. (One seam goes to the left and the other to the right.)  Measure down 5” from the point, and mark a line across the triangle. Pin the fabrics together.

4. Stitch across the triangle at the pencil line, back-tacking at each end of the seam. Repeat for the other corner of the outer fabric and both corners of the lining.

5.  Trim off corners 1/4” from the stitching.

6.  Press lining and outside of bag. Press top edge down 1/4”.

7.  Turn outside right-side out and place the lining inside, so the wrong sides are together. Line up the edge seams of both fabrics and pin in place. Lay flat on table and measure 4” from side seam edge. Place one end of cotton webbing in between the two fabrics, 1/2” from edge, and pin in place. Repeat for other side of handle. Turn bag over and pin other handle in place using the first handle for placement.

8.  Pin entire top of the bag.

9.  Top stitch around top of bag, 1/8” in from edge.

10.  Top stitch around top of bag a second time, 1/4” in from the edge.

All done! Grab your new bag and head for the store. 

Download Pattern

Shop Supplies & Tools Shown:

Kit

Ruler

Oliso Iron

Wool Mat

KAI Scissors

Marking Pencil

 

D.I.Y. Beeswax Wraps

While you're thinking about gifts this year, consider giving a gift to our environment and try using beeswax wraps instead of plastic wrap. Beeswax wraps are a wonderful natural alternative for keeping food protected. Use them in a lunch bag to wrap a sandwich or a cookie. Wrap and store cheese, fruit, or vegetables in the refrigerator. Wrap up a baked good for a snack on the run or to share with a friend. Beeswax wraps work brilliantly with just about any cold, dry food. 

Besides being good to our environment, using beeswax wraps has other benefits. They're reusable, unlike plastic wrap, so they save you money. They're a natural product (only cotton, beeswax, and jojoba oil) and won't expose your food to any unknown chemicals. Our large round wraps also do double duty as a clean mat when eating your lunch, or snack, protecting you or your family from questionable public surfaces. If all that's not enough, they are darn cute to boot. 

Even though beeswax wraps are awesome, they aren't the same as plastic wrap. Don't wrap hot or warm food (the wax will melt). Also, don't try the old seal the bowl and flip it upside down trick they do in plastic wrap commercials--it won't be pretty. Beeswax wraps will not cling like plastic wrap, and they aren't air tight. That's a bonus for things like cheese, bread loaves, and produce that like to breathe, but they won't work well with liquids, food that turns brown, or to contain strong odors. 

If you've read other tutorials, it's likely you've seen some telling you that adding pine resin to your wrap will make it cling. We did a lot of testing and have to say that while yes it will add a tiny bit of tackiness, it's not worth it. The wraps still won't stick like plastic wrap and the resin makes the application process a lot more troublesome (it clumps!). If you want to use your wrap as a bowl cover, we recommend adding skinny elastic to the edges instead. You'll be much happier with the results. 

We also used our test runs to determine the best recipe and technique to use for a flexible wrap with no wax cracking or flaking off. In the end we felt a two part application had the very best results. It only takes an extra minute or two and the finished wrap is just as good as any store bought product. To make it easy for you to give making your own a try we created a video and instruction sheet with all the details.

 

Find the written instructions here.

Even better, we made kits with absolutely everything you need to make three large wraps. No need to search for food safe ingredients or buy huge amounts you won't use. Kits includes the oil and wax pre-mixed for you, enough fabric for three 14" circle wraps, hook & loop tape, and a 1" paint brush to apply the wax. It's all wrapped up in a wide mouth quart mason jar ready for you to melt your mixture in. All you'll need to complete your wraps is 20-30 minutes and a couple household supplies!

Kits feature Betty's Luncheonette fabric and come with two color options: pink and orange, or blue and green. They make a great gift as is, or enjoy making them yourself, then give one with a treat wrapped inside. We also offer beeswax wrap kits without the fabric, so you can use the fabric of your choice--just be sure to pick fabric that is 100% cotton. 

This is a gift you can feel good about giving!  Everyone can use them, and at less than $20 for three wraps you can give them to everyone on your list. 

Knit or Crochet Soap Cozies - Free Patterns

I hear some of you thinking..."What's a soap cozy?"  It's basically a washcloth that your soap fits inside of. The cozy adds a bit of exfoliation and helps your soap lather with no need for a separate cloth or puff. Plus it keeps it from slipping out of your hands or off the soap dish. 

Practical, good looking, inexpensive and a breeze to make this week's project is a go-to for last minute gifts. Personalize it with the recipients favorite colors or match their home decor. Add a special soap with a great scent and who wouldn't want one! 

Now that you want a soap cozy, or two, let's go over how to make one. First, you'll need cotton yarn. For our samples we used Happy Cotton in School Days (navy) and Bubbly (blue). Three 28g balls made both the crocheted face cloth and soap cozy with enough left over for a second cozy. One ball will make a full cozy of either pattern (obviously with no stripe). 

This project can be knit or crocheted. We've included full instructions for both at the end of this post. Keep in mind that depending on your yarn choice, gauge, and size of soap, you may need to alter your starting number of stitches. Don't worry though, no other modifications are needed. Whatever number of stitches you start with, the patterns are worked the same. 

We chose a large bar of soap (1"x 2 1/2" x 4") and made our cozies to fit. Our finished cozies are 3 1/4" x 5 1/2". You want the cozy to fit snugly around the soap. Your cast on stitches, or beginning chain, should measure about 1/4" smaller than the end of your soap. Cotton yarn stretches! 

If you want to add a companion washcloth, that is even easier. Our crochet version is a simple square of single crochet and for a knit version make a square of garter stitch. These simple stitches look great and are sturdy enough to hold up to some scrubbing. A couple of washcloths in fun colors make a great gift for a cook. Add a rubber duck to a couple cloths and you have a cute and useful gift for a new baby. 

You can make all of these projects from any cotton yarn, but we love Happy Cotton for them. This quality yarn comes in 50 colors and small 28g/47y skeins so it's easy to add stripes (or any pattern) and still buy just what you need. Each skein is only $1.75 so you can make one for everyone on your list without breaking the bank!

All projects are suitable for beginners and can be completed in a few hours or less. 

Shop Supplies: Happy Cotton Yarn, Soap 

To make either soap cozy you will need:

1 skein Happy Cotton,  size H/8-5.00mm hook/size US 5-6 needle, tapestry needle, soap

Crochet Instructions for Soap Cozy:

Chain 13.

Single crochet in front loop along entire chain, then single crochet in back loop along the other side of the entire chain.  You will have 24 sts. All further stitches are worked in the round. 

Round 1 : double crochet all stitches

Round 2: single crochet all stitches

Repeat rounds 1 & 2 until your cozy measures 5 1/2" long.

Repeat round 1.

Snip yarn and pull though. Weave in ends

For tie: Chain until you reach 14" or desired length.

Weave chain through last double crochet row at top of soap cozy. Insert soap and tie cozy closed. 

Knit Instructions for Soap Cozy

Cast on 14 stitches using Judy's magic cast on. 

You will be knitting in the round--use your preferred method. 

Round 1-3: Knit 

Round 4: *K1, wrap twice, rep from  * to eor

Round 5: *K1, drop both wraps, rep from * to eor

Rep rounds 2 - 5 until your cozy measures 5 1/2" long.

Knit 2 rounds. Bind off. Weave in ends. 

Braid three 18" strands of yarn or make i-cord. Weave cord through the top set of dropped stitches. Insert soap and tie cozy closed. 

 

Wonky Four Patch - Part 2

In Wonky Four Patch - Part 1 we talked about color mixing and grouping your fabrics. This post will cover block construction, part three will cover completing the quilt top and we will end the series with my attempts to long arm quilt for the first time. 

Let's dive right in...

First, take a look at the completed quilt top. If you look closely you'll see that the top is composed of 35 four patch blocks in a 5 x 7 arrangement. Each block consists of four sections, each from a different fabric, and looks something like the one below.

If you followed along with the first post your 10" squares will already be in nine groups of four. If not, pause here and organize your fabric. Follow all the next steps for each group.

1) Stack one group (all four fabrics), lining up edges as closely as possible.

2) Cut stacked squares once vertically and once horizontally (as shown below). Cuts can be straight or angled in either direction. All cuts should be a minimum of two inches from any corner (to prevent bulk and keep pieces close in size). Vary the position of cuts for each set of four fabrics. 

3) Arrange your fabric so each layer of your stack has one section of each fabric (as shown below). Karla Alexander calls this technique "stack & shuffle". 

Transport your stack to your sewing area. It's finally time to sew!

I like to cut, and then immediately sew, each set of four blocks to limit my chances of confusion. I found chain piecing helped me keep all my sections in order and eliminated a lot of time starting and stopping. 

If you are wondering about the blue tape on my sewing table... I use a ruler, with the needle lightly touching the 1/4 inch mark, to position the tape. Having a long line to position my fabric edge against helps me keep my seams consistent, accurate, and straight. 

Using a quarter inch seam, piece the top two sections of the top block together, then the bottom two sections. Continue sewing the remaining blocks in the same manner. 

You will end up with a string of eight sections (see above). Notice the colored pins in the photo, I add matching pins to both sections of a block as I sew. The pins ensure that I can pair my sections easily after I've clipped my chain apart. 

Press your sections in their block pairs, pressing seams in opposite directions. Most of your sections will not have a clean straight center edge to sew (see below). 

No worries, just trim the center edges of all sections straight. In other words, trim the edge where you will sew the two parts of your block together (see below).

Next, place top and bottom block sections, right sides together, with seams aligned. Your center edge will not line up yet. Measure a quarter inch from the edge to be sewn (center edge) and place a pin straight through both seams (see below).

Gently rotate the top section until center edge is lined up, being careful not to shift seam placement. I like to work on my ironing board so I can push the pin through the fabric and into the board to ensure my seams stay exactly where I want them while I line up the center edges. 

Sew the block sections together. Press (seams can go in either direction). Trim your finished block to 9" square. Repeat until all blocks are completed. 

If you'd like to quilt-a-long with me, or try this project on your own, we have a number of fun 10" square bundles in stock. 

 

From top left - Pirate's Life, Grunge Basics, Woodland Secrets, Marmalade Dreams, Betty's Luncheonette, and Kaffe Fassett Collective Fall 2018 in Night. 

As always, please send me your photos or post them on social media with #stitchinpost if you try this project. 

Cheers,

Samantha 

 

 

Wonky Four Patch - Part 1

February's project of the month is a wonky four patch quilt made from Grunge Hits the Spot 10' squares. The finished quilt will look something like this ...

"Something like," because obviously my quilt is still in progress, and because this project is designed to be random and unique. All my four patch blocks are done, but I'm still moving them around on my design board to find the composition I like best.

Now that you have an idea of our final look, let's go a few steps back and talk about how I selected the colors for my block groups. To make the blocks for this quilt you need to divide the squares into groups of four (each group will make 4 blocks). My package came with 42 squares, so I could make up to 10 groups of four. I decided I wanted my quilt to be 5 x 7 blocks or 6 x 6 blocks, which means I need nine groups of four (36 sqs total). Ok, task number one is to eliminate six squares. 

I selected 36 squares, then folded them in quarters and laid them out side by side.

Anything stand out? Yes! The white immediately draws your eye, and not in a good way. For this quilt I wanted a harmonious mix, and not a focus color. The white has to go. 

Besides eyeballing it, try taking a photo in both color and black and white. You will see things differently. 

The white is even more obvious in the black and white photo. 

Take two - I replaced the white with lavender and the pink with yellow. I think the pink worked ok in the mix above, I just have personal issues with light pink and wanted to bring in the purple so the dark purple had a light companion. 

This time I didn't like the yellow and replaced it with a second lavender square. Much better. In the end, I eliminated two white, two yellow, and two pink squares. 

Next, I divided my colors into warm vs cool, and then split the warm and cool groups into light and dark halves.  

(top left = warm dark, top right = cool dark, bottom left = warm light, bottom right = cool light)

You will have to imagine the lavender in place of the pink and white. I forgot to retake the photo after I finished playing with my colors. I'm sure you get the idea anyway. 

At this point there are four groups of nine squares, but we want nine groups of four. To make my final groups I pulled one piece from each group. Taking the time to divide your fabrics into four groups and then building your sets helps ensure there is balanced color distribution and contrast in every block and across the entire quilt top.

I set myself a few other guidelines for selection my groups. Each group of four should have no more than one neutral color (creams, browns, greys & black) and the remaining three colors selected should include as many varied colors as possible. In other words chose a neutral and try not to select three blues in the same set. Here are the groups I came up with. 

You won't be able to keep to all the guidelines/rules in every group (there is a lot of blue and orange), but the more you can, the more unified the finished quilt top will look. 

In the example group below I have two blues, but I tried to keep them as different as possible by selecting one dark blue and one lighter and brighter blue. 

You can apply the same principles to other groups of fabric, or try dividing your fabric by color family, print size, value, or whatever else strikes your fancy. Just shoot for even distribution of color/print across the quilt top and enough contrast in the blocks to see each section clearly. 

Here's an example with prints from the Garden Delights bundle. With this fabric I first spilt the pack into color groups: red and purple or blue and green. Then I split each color group into a light and dark group. I also tried making four color groups, but found there wasn't enough contrast. 

Pulling one fabric from each group you'd get block something like this...

A completely different look from the Grunge collection, but equally pretty. 

Next post we will go over how to construct your wonky four patch blocks and put them together. No pattern required! 

Cheers,

Samantha 

 

 

 

 

 

Dreaming In Color with Jean Wells

What a magical concept! This year my goal is to be more of an explorer when it comes to my life in art. I will be writing a monthly blog sharing ideas that I hope will inspire your confidence when it comes to working with color in your projects.

Right after Christmas my newly upholstered studio chair was delivered. The chair really needed a small rectangular pillow to be comfortable to sit in so I went to work. I determined that a four inch repeat of squares would work in the space I had. Then comes the fun part, choosing a color as well as fabrics. I started with indigo blues and wanted to find an accent color. 

This is where the “dreaming” starts. What to put with the rich indigo blues to make them sing? The color vocabulary that I work with in the classroom consists of descriptive words that are opposites...

Temperature = Warm – Cool

Intensity = Dull – Bright

Value = Light – Dark

Opposites on the color wheel (red and green, blue and orange, yellow and violet )

In looking at the vocabulary words, I knew that I needed to add something brighter and/or lighter, as the blues I chose are darker. During the composition process I always try to “audition” colors as well as styles of prints. You never know which one will feel right to you. It feels like any of the combinations below would work to me. I am a firm believer that we know when it feels right.

One of the walls in my studio is a lime type of green, so I selected green as the accent. Besides color, I looked for prints that might have an area where I could add some decorative running stitches.

To make a similar pillow, you will need a few supplies in addition to the fabric. The fabrics are backed with a light weight, woven, fusible interfacing (Pellon Shapeflex SF101) which gives the cotton fabrics some body. I like to use size 8 Perle Eleganza thread and the Clover Gold Eye Embroidery Needles (Art No. 235) for hand stitched details. These needles stay sharper, and really travel through the fabric well. The only other supply needed is polyfil stuffing.

Pillow Instructions:

1. Choose fabrics for squares. Cut squares 4 ½” or larger if your finished pillow size can handle a larger square. Cut interfacing squares the same size and follow manufacturer’s instructions and fuse to the wrong side of the fabric squares. If you choose you can add running stitches to accentuate some of the design features on the printed fabric.

 

 

2. Arrange the squares in a pleasing manner and using a ¼” seam allowance, stitch the squares together in row 1, then row 2, etc. until all of the rows are finished. Press the seam allowances open. Join row 1 to row 2 etc. Press.
   
   
3. Cut backing the same size as the pillow front. Place the right sides of the pillow and backing together. Pin around the edges. Using a ¼” seam allowance stitch around the edges leaving a 4” wide opening to turn the pillow to the right side. Back-stitch at the beginning and ends of the seams.

4. Trim the excess fabric off each corner. Turn inside out gently pushing the corners out with a medium size knitting needle or dull pencil. Lightly press the front and back of the pillow.

5. To stuff the pillow, pull small wads of stuffing out of the bag and insert into the pillow through the opening. Every so often push stuffing into the corners. As you stuff the pillow keep pushing to the edges as well for a tight finish.
   
   
6. When it is stuffed to your liking hand stitch the two sides of the opening together.

Happy Sewing,

Jean

 

Wrap It Up

When I go to all the effort of selecting, or making a gift, I want the wrapping to look great too. I’m not crazy about all the waste created though, and I’m really not crazy about running to the store Christmas Eve to fight it out for the last roll of wrapping paper.

This year I’m avoiding both. I’m not buying any paper, ribbon or bows. I’m going to use my scraps, stash fabric, and maybe a few extra fat quarters.

Fabric makes beautiful, unique wrapping and saves money. It’s even good for the environment. Win, win! You can use everything from a handful of tiny strips to larger pieces of fabric. You don’t have to stick with holiday theme fabrics either. Get creative.

I chose a red, green and grey color scheme for my examples. All the wrapping came from scraps collected from around the shop.

This bar of soap is topped with an assortment of scrap ends tied in the middle, and trimmed even. Use the same general procedure as making a pompom (also a great gift topper). The soap was so pretty on its own, all I did was tie my fabric pompom on with an extra strip of fabric, then scrunch all the strips with my fingers.

This gift is wrapped in a long strip of fabric that I brought around the ends toward the top, the twisted the two ends around each other, pulled the ends to the back, around the sides, and pinned in place. Simple and pretty, plus the receiver will have a piece of fabric large enough to use. 

I wrapped this box in a Christmas print and added a “bow” made from tying three 1” x 4” wool scraps together with the ends folded under on the top two.

Once you start, more and more ideas will come to you. Add a fabric strip to a pre-printed box. Use yarn, metallic thread, or skinny fabric strips instead of ribbon. Try layering two to three fabrics together.

For larger gifts wrap in craft, or freezer paper, and add fabric ribbon or bows.

You can also make the wrapping part of the gift. Give a pattern, and wrap it with the fabric to make it.

Make our free Download FabricGiftBoxes to hold a small gift.

Happy wrapping!

-Samantha